South Africa 2008 – My Passport is Full
My passport is nearly out of pages, and that nearly kept me from entering South Africa this weekend. South Africa has a strict rule that your passport not only expire more than 3 months in the future (which is common) but also that it have at least TWO full blank pages left.
The Situation
I knew this, but didn't worry about it because I have exactly two pages (23 and 24) left. However, when we arrived in Johannesburg Airport and started going through passport control, the young lady at the desk announced:
"Your Passport is full."
"Ah, well, it has two free pages at the back."
"NO. It's full. Those pages are for amendments, not Visas."
"Really? I didn't realize that. I'm not sure I know what an amendment is. Can we just use those and I'll promise to get more pages when I get back home?"
"No."
"Well, what can be done? Is there someone I can talk to?"
"What are you saying exactly?"
"I'm wondering if there's someone who might be able to help out with this problem."
"Are you implying I don't know how to do my job?"
"Um, no, not at all, I'm just trying to understand what the next steps are."
At this point, I'm literally stunned. The anger and negative vibe I'm getting here is really greater than ANYTHING I've ever felt before. We've had stones thrown at us by hooligans and had years of stares and negativity, but I'm really sensing that this lady HATES me, and I'm only a few sentences into our interaction here.
Then a older white guy comes over (the angry passport person was a very young Black lady) and asks what's up. It's clear that he's a peer from a job perspective. NOT a boss. In fact, there doesn't appear to be a boss anywhere to be seen. I'm used to some kind of passport overseer around.
Anyway, this guys says, "No, no, there's a new rule - there was a memo - that it's now OK to use the Amendments page on American Passports." This new rule is apparently a few months old.
I've been silent since my last sentence...but now the older guy and the young lady are starting to get into it, in front of me. He's saying that he'll take the responsibility/fall and sign whatever to get me my visa. She's saying no way. Then he snatches my passport from her and walks away sharper, declaring "...and now I have to do YOUR job."
The young lady is now mumbling under her breath in isiZulu about what an asshole both this guy and I am. But she's continuing to process the family's passport. A VERY long ten minutes pass and Older Guy comes over all apologies and light, saying he's sorry for the confusion and the trouble. He leaves.
The Young Lady gives us our passports and I say "Siyabonga sibili sisi..." She starts a little, but there's still steam coming out of her ears. But, we're through.
The Analysis
My wife is pretty steamed at this point, but not with Young Lady, instead with me. She feels I handled a very African situation in a very American way. Rather than being instantly and extremely submissive to the Person in Power, I was logical, and implied that perhaps a supervisor could break the impasse.
My brother in law feels that Americans in a service capacity (like a Passport Control Officer) typically don't want responsibility, preferring instead to defer to a supervisor who would ultimately take any heat from a decision. Africans, on the other hand, will assert any and all power that they have, almost a societal game of Rock, Paper, Scissors. A bus driver may be a "societal nobody" but he's still King of the Bus and he can kick Hobos and Presidents alike off the bus. This woman, for whatever reason, was asserting her Power, and when I didn't back down and say something like "Oh, my, I'm so sorry, I had no idea...can you help me?" I had already lost.
This interaction put a REALLY bad taste in my mouth, as it was an interaction that totally didn't go the way my mental script had laid it out.
As much as people are the same, cultures are VERY different. Now I realize that this Young Lady might have just broken up with her boyfriend or been oppressed by Whites her whole life. Or, maybe she just had a bad day and I got caught in the middle. I'll never know, but I do know that I was a biscuit away from being turned around (or calling the US Embassy) and came dangerously close to a ruined trip.
What's the moral of the story? I've travelled all over, and I think I'm pretty thoughtful, knowledgeable and even charming. This usually works great for me (has for 35 years) in interaction with folks. However, even after more than a half-dozen trips to various African countries, I'm reminded that I don't know much at all. I'm not quite sure what I could have done to make this interaction more successful, short of living in South Africa for more than a month at a time.
What do YOU think, Dear Reader? How do things work in your country between People with Power and People without? This might be as simple as an interaction between a customer and a waiter, or a loan officer, or a customs agent.
About Scott
Scott Hanselman is a former professor, former Chief Architect in finance, now speaker, consultant, father, diabetic, and Microsoft employee. He is a failed stand-up comic, a cornrower, and a book author.
About Newsletter
Nice story, even though you almost had to sleep in the sofa :) Your blog and podcasts and all the rest are allways interesting.
I'm from Brazil (I'm living in Paris now) and I'd say that you would have almost the same problem there. You would have found a supervisor of sorts, but you would be very disrespectful to the clerk. I'm Brazil it's part of being polite to ask for the person's help first, and ask for a superior just when everything goes wrong. In many cases the clerk will call the supervisor himself and see what can be done, as long as you've being nice and didn't jump the hierarchy. We are all (at least most of us) very nice to people and we like to help out, you just need to be nice, not subservient.
And no, we didn't have anything like the apartheid in recent years, and even though the damn racism is still around, acting in the way I've suggested this has much more to do with being polite and respectful than anything else.
Keep up the good work, have a nice trip in Africa, I hope to go there some day.
Cheers,
Rafael.
P.S.: It just began to snow here in Paris
This is the norm here in RSA, whenever we have to go renew licenses or id documents 80% the time you will encounter this type of situation. I tend to ask for management to help, but that also does not work out.
When you leave from such a situation I feel that their are not competent people in place to provide the type of service where people will try to go that extra mile to help.
I think it is an attitude problem where the current situation in South Africa, and maybe in the rest of Africa, that the African Black person does not want to be "ordered" by the White man. I try always to help, like this one time when a waiter added the wrong item on our bill, with a helping attitude I wanted to help her see her mistake, but she did not want anything of that.
Hopefully one day here in RSA or even the world everyone won't feel threaten by each other. World Peace! :P
Just FYI, US Immigration is no different for foreigners. They are extremely rude and may have deported if one is not submissive enough!
I really enyoy reading your blogs.
Peter
Unfortunately, "little hitlers" as we tend to call them are at their most annoying when you come across them in a place where you are in a weak position. Airports are places where you can't take a different route, decide to come back another day, or get into a heated argument - not unless you enjoy a beating and a full cavity search.
Usually you have two ways:
1) "May I talk to your boss, or how can I have the visa?". It should be done before any formal conflict, because if there is a conflict already, it is hard for the person to just say "OK, OK, I'll do it". You know, honor and all this stuff. But usually these people don't want to be wrong in face of their bosses, so it they can do it, they (or their bosses) probably will do it after some "explanations" and "negotiations". I mean, they can explain you how bad you are, how it is important, etc... And in the end they say "... but OK, next time do not ...." - and the problem is solved :)
Again, if there was no conflict between you :) Especially in Russia :)
2) "Oh, super-puper person, you are the only who can save me". Some psychological game, but if you can make this person please you, if you can play by his/her rules, you could win :)
It is very, very depends on the person you have problem with...
You handled it perfectly otherwise you would've been there for hours!
I would say its really bad service.... nobody is willing to help anymore, client service / customer care is out the window.... it makes a person angry to see that its bad but it also make you sad since you don't want to hear bad things about your country even if its true.
Fact: RSA must change!! Customer service etc must become important again else its a waste.
One piece of advice - I don't know whether it works in South Africa, but in Romania still does: you get the visa (or simply benevolence from the guy in power) with a $25 bill shoved into the pocked of the clerk (amount or currency may vary).
Just make sure to prepare the money in advance, not to let other people see you looking into your wallet in front of a clerk. This is just to save face, because everyone would understand very well and tacitly accept what you are doing.
Merry travel!
The only problem I had while moving to Norway was the habit they have of making this "ah!" sound which for them means "alright", while in most countries it means "there's a problem here". So the first time I entered the country, on my first international travel ever, fresh out of school and pretty much broke, I almost had a heart attack when the woman opened my totally blank Brazilian passport and said "ah!!".
Now when I get back to Brazil it really annoys me the way that people with any kind of power whatsoever act as if they were kings.
My first impression of that hell hole - waiting for 3 hours for my luggage... not so much in a line but rather a large squirming heap of people... knocking my head on the floor in the shuttle bus as the driver treated our transfer as his own private rally race - an Afrikaner lifted me up with the words "Welcome to South AFrica - not for the faint of heart"!
Luckily the rest of SA is brilliant if you want it to be - just remind yourself - you're not in Kansas anymore!
But then again, like the gentleman in your story, we have many good people too :)
Yes, given that she is working checking passport's at the airport, she probably should have been more sensitive to the fact that people from different cultures behave differently - but it is different to get out of ingrained behavior.
I have always (in my own country and elsewhere) found problems get solved more easily by smiling at the person, and asking what it is I can do to solve the issue. Unless the other person is having a very bad day and not at all inclined to be helpful, this works, since you are not blaming the other person for anything.
In India, asking to speak to the supervisor without having tried to resolve the issue with the person in front of you, can be interpreted as an accusation of incompetence, and obviously people's reaction would be influenced by this interpretation.
Welcome to the South African way, people here with any kind of power will use it. However, with 2010 and the Confedaration Cup coming, the attitude should change. However, I doupt it. You will find this attidute rampant from passport control to the MacDonald cachier. Never the less you did what needed to be done, having lived here for 20 years I do it too.
Enjoy your trip and thanks for a fantastic presentation last night.
This was a typical situation of showing who is in control. The lady had the power to refuse you and she did. I have seen this happening a lot. This is not really a racial issue but power issue. In my community I have seen people forcing other people to do stuff even though their title is very lame and stupid.
Few years back when I was a student I was about to miss a bus to school. So, I ran full speed towards the bus and made it to the bus. The bus driver was a black lady. As soon as I swiped my card and walked to sit in the seat the driver asked me "Did you say anything?". I said NO. And then she said "Don't you have to say thanks to me". I was shocked and thinking WTF. Thanks for what???
Well in the end I had to say thanks or I am pretty sure I was kicked out of the bus for no reason. This shows she was in control of the bus. I can be freaking Neil Diamond but still she is the queen of the bus.
Also people will less power will use the power more often then people will more power.
i think your response was nerdeque "take me to your leader". when i look at what you said, you were the very soul of discretion and politeness "Well, what can be done? Is there someone I can talk to?". in Uganda that would have been perceived as a preamble to a bribe.
i don't get why the missus was mad at you though. on the other hand, there were undertones of dis. it is all in the unsaid words man. like for example "Well, what can be done? Is there someone I can talk to?" could end, "cause i am getting no where with the idot i am talking to now!!"
welcome to africa
I'd like to add, as curious as it may be, that the worst attitude I have ever faced there came from the Brazilians that work in the US Consulate, handling visitors visas for people trying to come and spend their money in the US.
In the US, the only time I see this type of behavior is when I need anything from the Dept. of Motor Vehicles in IL. They must hate their jobs.
Compare that with Canada, who wanted to know where we were staying, what we were doing etc. Much more relevant to coming over a border.
I guess it depends on your tone at the time - most people are stressed when they come thru immigration, but few immigration officers seem to work WITH that - they just get all suspicious etc which makes it worse. I guess, given what they are dealing with, thats fair enough.
Maybe asking "ok, so you can't do it now, and there is a big queue behind me. Do you know if I have to now get on a plane, or call the US embassy, or....?" might have defused it. But like most cultural things, it depends on the countries and people involved..
That said - it is you job to make sure your papers are in order. :) You don't have a right to come into their country (any country).....
If you don't have it, it is available on Amazon and I know you will enjoy it.
Are Your Lights On
jack
I'm sorry for your trouble there, but the laugh was about the way you described it, the "Rock, Paper, Scissors game" thing, that's exactly what is going on here in Iran.
With a huge difference: here the majority of people usually treat strangers (I mean people from other, especially western, countries) nicer than they treat their fellow Iranians!
There are definitely cultural differences in this world, but they have little place in a professional setting. The expectations for understanding should always be equally attempted for on both sides.
Glad you made it through! :)
;)
Personally, I would've done the same thing you did. I have little patience for people in that kind of role that can't offer solutions when they are the one to recognize a problem - she should've immediately either given you options she was cognizant of and/or offered to check with a colleague in case there was something she was overlooking (like a memo she apparently forgot about or didn't see).
When my wife and I entered India for a cousin's wedding, the passport checker said we didn't look like our pictures. He told us it looks like we'd gained weight in the last 3 years but even then it was a stretch. These are pictures that are OBVIOUSLY us. It was clear that he was trying to provoke me and my wife. We were fuming but didn't make a scene so we could just get the hell outta there.
Where do you get your tickets?
No silver bullet yet, but we've found Best Travel Store to be consistently lower than everyone else on flights to Johannesburg. A little more work processing the ticket, but not much.
Now I realize that this Young Lady might ... been oppressed by Whites her whole life.
South Africa has been a proper democracy for more than 10 years now, so there's no chance of that.
been there, done *that* many times, all of them at the US border
But you can't make a lion a vegetarian any more than you can stop an American being one or acting like one. :)
On the other hand -- if you cannot make progress with the original officer -- the next step is to talk to her boss.
BTW, why go to Africa at all? Problems on the borders are really minor in comparison with what potentially could happen with you in poor country.
Isn't it safer to stay home and use internet/telephone to communicate with people you like?
I'm not saying what you did was wrong, but in general it seems a good strategy to make sure the person you're talking with has explicitly closed all doors before going over their head.
Based on your description, I don't think you did or said anything wrong. The problem seems to have come in between these two quotes:
"I'm wondering if there's someone who might be able to help out with this problem."
"Are you implying I don't know how to do my job?"
It's not clear to me how the passport lady could have thought you were implying she didn't know how to do her job. Perhaps it comes down to her understanding of the word "someone". Nothing you said seems to imply that you thought a supervisor has to intervene.
I have heard enough stories of people's lives being screwed because of issues they had at international border crossing. One moral of this story is to always read up on passport/visa rules and regulations of countries you are about to enter. I go as far as to print out a copy and bring it with me on my trips. In case of a problem at passport control, I have proof that I am following the rules as I understand them. BTW, many countries have a rule that your passport has to expire more than SIX months in the future.
Enjoy the rest of your trip and your brother-in-law's wedding :-)!!
Devu
It must also be very unrewarding to have a job like that, where you never really get to be much more than a monkey robot.
"..maybe she just had a bad day and I got caught in the middle.."I think that's the reason she acts rude, sometimes someone that deals with people all day gets really tired of the problems of others or they just tired to explain the rules over an over... but I don't think that's your fault. Nothing justify her to be rude
"...Can we just use those and I'll promise to get more pages when I get back home?"
"No."
So I don't see how asking for her help further would have achieved anything. You wanted to see if a supervisor could help with a special case. Perhaps culturally it is a different way to approach the problem but approach aside your request was a perfectly valid one. I immigrated from England nine years ago and I've had a mixture of treatment and experiences from all sides. I think personally that being a customs official is a sucky, stressful job and that the people working in those positions just get burned out and become mean. I'm sure that the racial tension in the country doesn't help at all, but more than likely she has been yelled at for doing her job wrong a million times over and is spitefully becoming a stickler for the rules in any case possible; even when she has the rules wrong. I'm sure that her associate who helped you has given her grief in the past given his comments and affrontive handling of the situation, which probably only served to worsen it all.
At least things worked out and you didn't end up getting turned around. It's easy to be spiteful yourself in those situations, a la "This is why I don't visit your <insert favorite word here> country.", but you kept your calm and even reported here in a very subjective way.
I've been yelled at, pressured, and messed around at passport control a couple of times and found the entire thing to be a big game of who can intimidate who. If I show up a little unshaven in my jeans and a t-shirt to US customs I seem to get a medium amount of hassle and questions. If I show up in an Oscar de la Renta, smart shoes, carrying a laptop and looking busy, I more often than not get ushered through with a "Have a superb day, sir, <grovel><grovel>" because apparently I look and come across more like someone who is connected and might have your job if you give me grief. It's a game.
Good manners, a calm head, and a willingness to explain your situation to n different people seems to statistically have the highest success rate. Sorry your actions were taken as anything other than just trying to solve a problem in this case.
I can totally understand you getting hot and bothered under the collar. But it's best to keep your cool because the last thing you want is to be deported over two pages in your passport.
We over-confidently argued like lawyers stating specific clauses, immigration laws & demanded that they let us board the flight. That should have confused a heck out of them & they had to call the UK embassy (at least they pretended to!). In a couple of minutes, we were on the flight, all set & relaxed.
IMO, sometimes being submissive might land you in unnecessary trouble ;-)
http://www.clearlycultural.com/geert-hofstede-cultural-dimensions/power-distance-index/
South Africa should not have been a problem.
You're a funny guy, so although I realise yours was quite a serious situation - if you can find the heart to see a bit of a humorous side ... it does kinda remind me of a certain episode of Seinfeld ... ;-)
IMHO, it's not a 'country' thing, it's a people thing. I think this Seinfeld episode is a play on the fact that you get people behaving that way everywhere - even in soup kitchens.
Bernard (NZ).
I guess you just didnt prepare your trip very well.
Frank (NL)
I guess it is true for all courties which are under some sort of colonization in the past. Even that includes the tiny country named Bangladesh where i am from. We never mess with people with power. They think they are the boss and they should be respected at any cost.
Although, i am not sure but i have a feeling that the US immgration officers are never kind to me when i travel to US so i am always kinda afraid to ask any questions at all.
Could it be some sort of racial or even religious issue that comes to play during this kind of scenario ? What you say ?
Then the other week he resorted (once again) to harassment and alienation - thanks to that he now has a lot of higher powers questioning his actions and he seems to be running with his tail between his legs.
Scott, I think you did the right thing - just because people are in a position of power it doesn't mean they can abuse it. This extends further when a person is working in a role where they need to be aware of different cultures. While your wife seems to think that your at fault for not understanding the African way of doing things they customs officer is at fault for not understanding international visitors may not be aware of this..
I have found that the be the case in most countries I've been to *except* the US, where it seems people are happy to defer to their supervisor for the slightest little thing. Just my personal experience.
Oh, and to ppl talking about problems entering the US, I noticed a *huge* difference once I got my Green Card - as a tourist or business traveler I got no respect, but once I was a "resident alien" (nanoo-nanoo!), the passport officer would nearly always smile and say something like "welcome home" on entry - which was really nice :)
Finally, according to www.isiZulu.net , "Siyabonga sibili sisi" means something like "Thank you for the truth (or facts?), sister" (although I know nothing about isiZulu grammar or word order, so I might be quite wrong!).
If she was indeed a very young woman (e.g. <25) then I cringe when I hear people bring up the race card. I'm nearly 30, and I've grown up and gone through my entire school career with black friends. Obviously there are those who will display racist tendencies, but this is just as likely to happen in the US or Europe, its not a South African specific problem (as I'm sure you'll be well aware of). The problem is the rampant sense of entitlement that those in power seem only too eager to fuel.
I think you handled it just fine. People in those positions need to leave their personal problems at the door (just like anyone working with the public), and keep in mind the fact that they're going to interact with people of different cultures who, more importantly, have likely just spent many hours in a flying sardine tin.
It stems from the fact that the Home Affairs department who administer this area is one of the most inept , chronically underfunded and mismanaged in SA. With the odd exception , getting one's fingernails removed with pliers is preferable to interacting with a Home Affairs employee. By Far.
I apologise on behalf of my erstwhile country and I hope it didn't leave a permanently bad taste - Home Affairs rude and sullen attitude should not be taken as representative of the people.
It stems from the fact that the Home Affairs department who administer this area is one of the most inept , chronically underfunded and mismanaged in SA. With the odd exception , getting one's fingernails removed with pliers is preferable to interacting with a Home Affairs employee. By Far.
I apologise on behalf of my erstwhile country and I hope it didn't leave a permanently bad taste - Home Affairs rude and sullen attitude should not be taken as representative of the people.
A tourist visiting a country thinks, "I'm here, visiting and helping their economy, why aren't these customs people more accomodating?". You mentioned it yourself, the person was in a "service" capacity. WRONG! Customs agents are not in a service capacity -- see above.
At best, these agents attempt to apply government policy to the letter. At worst, customs officers leverage the little (longterm) power they have over you, sometimes just to see you squirm a little. Ultimately, you'll get what you need but you often have to beg to get it.
Morale of the story, be prepared and don't assume "it's no big deal" because they're waiting to make it a big deal... :-)
(years of experience crossing the Canadian border from Detroit to Ontario)
As far as interactions with OR Tambo Airport go, that wasn't too bad. At least your luggage wasn't stolen, and you weren't followed from the airport and mugged. Mind you, last time I arrived there I just walked straight through passport control because nobody was there!
I am a regular reader of your blog - normally a fan (and a lurker) - but this is pathetic
Now I realize that this Young Lady might have just broken up with her boyfriend or been oppressed by Whites her whole life.
So the young lady may be a racist but that is an acceptable excuse for incompetence, rudeness etc.... Rationalizing racism is OK as long as her racism is directed at whites? Wow. Obsequiousness has hit a new low and it's insulting to all of us. My momma taught me to treat people respectfully regardless of the color of their skin. Politeness is universal to all cultures. Besides the woman is supposed to be in a position to deal with visitors/foreigners (perhaps of cultures different than her own). I realize you are drowning in white guilt but come up for air once in a while.
Ultimately, however, you are right. All I am saying is that being color blind, even when being fairly aware the situation as I consider myself, is a daily challenge.
I totaly agree with your conclusion, that you tried to be logical instead of anything else. In Algeria, when facing a situation like this (with a policeman or any agent..) it's better to apologize and to ask that person directly for help ! The key is to let her/him feels that he/she is so important ! If you succeed in doing this, you'll get what you want.
Comments are closed.