Hanselminutes Podcast 107 - Digital Photography Explained (for Geeks) with Aaron Hockley
My one-hundred-and-seventh podcast is up. In this episode I sit down with my Twitter-Friend Aaron Hockley and he helps me understand my new Nikon D40. Aaron is turning pro as a photographer, but he's also a programmer, so I figured it'd take a true geek to explain aperture and F-Stop to me. I was right!
Links from the Show
- Aaron's photo business
- Aaron's photostream on Flickr
- Adobe Photoshop Express License discussed
- Aaron's photography blog and on Twitter
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About Scott
Scott Hanselman is a former professor, former Chief Architect in finance, now speaker, consultant, father, diabetic, and Microsoft employee. He is a failed stand-up comic, a cornrower, and a book author.
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Also picked up the 70-300mm zoom lens. Wish I could have afforded the vibration reduction, but on a bright sunny day or with a tripod I haven't found it to be too big of an issue.
One piece of advice, pick up a transparent UV filter for your lens. Put it on and never remove it. That way if it gets scratched, scuffed, marred, dinged, etc (and it will) you just unscrew it, toss it, and buy a new one and you're out 20 bucks instead of megabucks for a new lens.
Two of my favorite sites for photos (both have active forums that should be checked out):
http://www.opacity.us/
http://www.hoursofdarkness.com/
One is about Urban Ruins photography, the other is about night time photography, and are both very good sites with active forums.
When you are ready to get more into the manual settings of the camera, check out the Magic Lantern video for your camera. Mine for the D80 was quite good, got into understanding how to setup your camera to do some of the things talked about on your show.
Finally you mentioned someone complaining about the ads, by all means keep them! Those wonderful folks pay so we don't have to, so I'm more than happy to listen to their product info in return. In addition it's often useful info to just know about.
Thanks,
Arcane Code
http://www.nikonians.org/
They have interesting podcasts too.
Gheorge, thanks for chiming in about one way to solve the movement/depth of field issue without necessarily having super-expensive glass.
ArcaneCode brought up a UV filter. There tend to be two schools of thought... either folks who recommend leaving a filter on all the time, or those who don't. I'm in the latter category. Adding a filter puts one more layer of glass between your sensor and the subject, which can lead to issues with lens flare. I do a fair amount of "other than bright daylight" shooting and flare can be a real problem when dealing with lights in the environment. In my opinion, a better method of lens protection is to purchase a lens hood. They're usually made of hard plastic and will protrude out past the front of the lens, so if you accidentally bump it into a wall, your car, etc. you won't scratch the glass. Perhaps I'll do a blog post about filters and flare, with photo examples.
And to reiterate something I said at the end of the podcast... get out there and shoot. Take your camera everywhere. Experiment with different types of shots, from different distances, using different camera settings. Shoot in the sun. Shoot in the rain. Shoot when it's dark. Just shoot... anything. Then look at the results and see what worked well and what didn't, and learn from that.
And just to nitpick Scott Hanselman, the D40 only has 6.1 megapixels :). And yes, Nikon really needs to pull their heads out of the sand and release a Vista x64 codec.
If you go the RAW route I'd highly recommend getting Photoshop CS3, Adobe will let you upgrade to CS3 from three previous version (7, CS or CS2) for about $200. With CS3 the Bridge add in (Photoshop's file explorer) has been greatly enhanced from earlier versions and hosts the Camera Raw plugin, which will handle most current manufacturers RAW images. A great book on how to use Camera Raw is Bruce Fraser's Camera Raw with Adobe Photoshop * this is published for each version of Photoshop, get the one for the version of Photoshop you use.
Regardless of whether you use RAW or not make use of the Histogram (a histogram is also utilized in Photoshop and Camera Raw). There is no "perfect" histogram and you do not want a bell curve as Aaron mentioned; what you want to avoid is spikes on either end or a flat line on either end. A spike indicates a complete overload and a flat line indicate a complete lack of information. No two image histograms will be the same, normally.
The D40, like most camera, has a roughly 3 x 4 aspect ratio if you want to fill up your wide screen monitior(s) or HDTV with the 16 x 9 aspect ratio you will need to do one of two things, crop the picture so it is a 16 x 9, which will require throwing away part of the image, or making a pano photo, by stitching two or more pictures together (this is a whole other arena in photography), Photoshop CS3 will automatically do the stitching for you (a very nice feature); but you must shoot in manual mode for it to work so that auto focus, auto white balance and auto exposure do not change between shots.
Besides having several memory cards another tool for the photo safari is a portable hard drive (battery operated) with a build in card reader so you can copy the memory card to the hard drive while in the field then plug the hard drive into a USB on your computer when you get back.
Lot's of 'Kodak' moments with growing children. Another option for sharp images and blurry backgrounds for moving objects, besides the narrow depth of field is to pan the camera with the movement of the object when you take the picture. This takes some practice but you can achieve some nice affects and works best when the movement is linear and perpendicular to you line of sight (riding a bike in front of you).
P.S Good to see a non-developer podcasts for a change...
It's great when you divert from development topics occasionally.
I also have a Nikon D40. Purchased when I decided to take an Open University 10 week on-line short course in the UK T189 Digital photography: creating and sharing better images. It concentrated on photography and use of Adobe Photoshop Elements for editing and cataloging. If you can find time for a similar short course (I guess you can't do this one in the US), then I'd certainly recommend it.
I was surprised ISO settings and/or flash were not mentioned as potential solutions to aid with taking photos in lower light conditions while maintaining a narrow depth of field. I opted for a Nikon SB-800 flash from the outset to avoid the harness of the built-in flash. Since the course I've invested in a Nikon DX VR 18-200 mm F3.5-5.6G Zoom to replace the stock 18-55mm lens and a 55-200mm lens. Saves swapping lens and the quality has been good enough for me. The vibration reduction technology allows for taken pictures in lower light conditions.
Happy photography...my tip is to learn about Adjustment Layers for Levels and Saturation something the Histogram is useful for. Also remember to calibrate the colours on your screen prior to editing otherwise any prints you may get might turn out quite as expected.
Thanks for your time and effort podcasting each week.
Mark
Even though you chose Nikon, I forgive you.
enjoy the Camera. Shoot a TON with it.
I am receiving my 2nd Digital SLR on Monday (Canon 40D). I already have the Canon 350D and LOVE IT.
the world of the Digital SLR is amazing and rewarding.
Great Podcast.....
Post your pics as you learn...I cant wait to see.
Http://www.pbase.com/pdxJaxon
cheers
GAJ
To share, the DSLR my wife and I share is a bit off the beaten path -- a Pentax ist DL -- or something like that. The name is so goofy I can't remember it. I chose the Pentax around 2 years ago because of cost and versatility, as I have a couple old Pentax lenses I used with my old 35mm Pentax K1000 that are still compatible.
Anyway, I was amazed that in the approx. 37 minutes of the podcast, you guys did a pretty good job of explaining some of the complex interactions of the manual operation of a DSLR (or SLR for that matter). I think I saw it in the comments above, but there's yet another dimension to the exposure/depth of field equation: ISO or in the case of digital, ISO equivalence. Of course, there's flash and other artificial lighting, too, but ISO is the other non-supplemental light source component. However, I think if you went there, you'd have run out of time!
You could easily devote an entire series of shows to ISO, flash, f-stops and shutter speed, followed up by more discussion of RAW and post-processing concepts (things like white balance, etc.)
As for photo processing software, I am definitely preferential to Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop -- Lightroom in particular is fantastic if you don't need the layering and masking of Photoshop. Also, there versions for the Mac and PC that look identical.
I am craving a DSLR, just have to get my wife to be as much of a shutterbug as I am, but I think the first born will bring that about.
I'm hardly and expert though, especially with the 40, as I have the 80 which I love.
@Scott H - Photo processing software might be a good topic for a follow up show. And something besides Photoshop, at 600 bucks it was no surprise when I saw a statistic that 60% of all copies of Photoshop in use today are pirated.
Check out Scott Kelby's The Digital Photography Book. It's sort of like a "cookbook" for obtaining different types of effects, such as a blurred background with an in-focus foreground. I took this book on a recent vacation and found it to be a helpful companion.
Thanks as always, Scott!
Also, if you're really interested in progressing your photography skills, check out the Tips from the Top Floor podcast. I've listened on and off for a long time, and really picked up a lot of great information.
I really enjoyed this show and the fact that someone else owns a D40. It may not be top of the line, but it does take some really nice images.
As others have noted there are a couple of things that are missing such as a focus motor, although Nikon is coming out with more AF-S lenses every day. The only other things I am wishing for is an ISO-100 setting and more focus points.
If you have free time (I don't know how you could) check my Webshots page to see lots of images taken with the D40.
Tim
http://community.webshots.com/user/twmurph99
Learned a lot from the show.
Just a few days ago one of my friends bought a D40 and I realized I don't know anything about the different settings on the camera.
Maybe now I should go ahead and buy one myself :D
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